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Paddle the Ghost River With Keith Kirkland

By Candice Ludlow

http://stream.publicbroadcasting.net/production/mp3/wkno/local-wkno-923983.mp3

Memphis, TN –

The Wolf River Conservancy's Outreach Director Keith Kirkland says the Ghost River stretch is aptly named because it's so eerie.

I met Kirkland on a balmy summer morning at the Bateman Road Boat Ramp, just past the tiny town of Moscow, Tennessee. I hopped into his SUV and with his canoe tied to the top, and we drove several miles up the road where we launched the canoe in the shallows by the LaGrange Bridge and Kirkland began paddling to the most mysterious section of river.

Along the way there are beaver dams, water snakes, vegetation (spatterdock, swamp alder, tupelo gum and cypress). Four miles downriver we finally came across a sign that tells us we're about to enter the Ghost Trail.

For years, Kirkland heard stories about people getting lost and having to spend the night in their canoes, but he didn't believe it. Kirkland's an experienced river guide! Then on one of the coldest days and longest nights in 1991, he and a friend decided to paddle the Ghost River. They got off to a late start and not long before the sun began sinking, they realized they were lost.

They saw what looked like narrow channels enshrouded by cypress knees and cypress trees. That's when they began hitting dead-ends. They became confused and were beginning to get scared, especially after turkey vultures starting circling overhead. Kirkland thought they were going have to sleep in their canoes that night. But after hours of searching for the right channel, they finally made their way out.

Now, navigating the Ghost River isn't as scary. There are river-signs posted to guide you through the Ghost River. But you've still got to watch for snakes.

The Wolf River Conservancy offers guided tours of the Ghost River section. Their mission is twofold: restore the Wolf River and create a 30-mile urban greenway through Memphis and Shelby County.