The restaurant scene in Memphis is always changing. Long-standing neighborhood favorites close down while new establishments open in their place. In this week's episode of Behind the Headlines on WKNO/Channel 10, host Eric Barnes delves into the complexities of opening and running a restaurant with local restaurateurs and industry insiders. They discuss the challenges involved and explore the reasons many restaurants ultimately close.
Monique Williams, chef and co-owner of Biscuits & Jams, spoke openly about the personal and financial pressures of running a restaurant. “It has to be your passion. You really have to love what you do. It's a very hard industry to be a part of,” she said. “It's very taxing, you know. It takes you away from your family. From a financial standpoint, you just don't know from one day to the next.”
Mary Oglesby, who co-owns Mary’s B.O.T.E. and Cameo, echoed a similar sentiment: “It's the kind of industry where, once you get into it, you either love it or hate it.”
A deep emotional investment is often essential, but doesn’t lessen the toll. Restaurant Consultant Tim Barker, who recently closed Edge Alley after a decade in business, shared how demanding the work can be for owners. “There were weeks where it was closer to 90 [hour work week],” he said. “Sixty [hours a week] is sort of a minimum.”
Opening a restaurant—or keeping one afloat—is far more complicated than simply flipping on the lights. Williams recently launched a new location downtown and described the process as “a beast.”
“We kind of went into that with thinking it was kind of gonna be a turnkey,” she said. “It definitely did not turn out to be that.” From delayed openings and staffing issues to rising food and liquor costs, Williams detailed the layered challenges that come with each new venture.
Oglesby, who is preparing to open two new concepts in the former Knifebird and Public Bistro spaces, has faced similar setbacks. “We signed two leases months ago and hopefully one of them will be open soon.” She pointed to the burden of navigating code enforcement as a major hurdle. “Right now it feels like every time, every year, there's a new thing put in code. There's a new thing that you have to get, and they don't tell you about that, you know?”
Barker agreed, highlighting how inconsistencies in code enforcement further complicate the process. “Code is left to the interpretation of the inspector. So [the written code] may say one thing, but if the inspector prefers a different standard, then you have to comply with that, then they have to come back”—a process that can take weeks and weeks, leading to a stalled grand opening.
Furthermore, guests on the show talked about restaurant closures, emphasizing that not every shutdown is a failure.
“Sometimes it's actually a story about somebody that owns a restaurant wanting to do something else. Sometimes it's a lease ending. Sometimes it's people retiring,” said Daily Memphian reporter Holly Whitfield. “It's not always a tragedy.”
Burnout is also a major factor. Williams reflected on the personal sacrifices she's made for her restaurant: working 70+ hour weeks, missing family events, and struggling to make time for her mother. “You kind of get to a place in your life where you're like, 'okay, what's important?' It’s like, 'I love my dream, but do I let all the rest of this fall to the wayside?'”
Guests also mention that another point of frustration is the assumption that crime is to blame when a restaurant closes. “It gets frustrating,” said Oglesby. “Every single time a restaurant closes, people are like 'it's because of crime'—99% of the time it is not. But, that's the thing that people jump on automatically.”
So what keeps a restaurant going?
“Teamwork,” said Williams. “When you have that, [you’re] unstoppable.”
Oglesby added, “Our staff is our greatest asset,” explaining that low turnover stems from treating employees with respect and ensuring they feel like part of the team—not just “a cog in the system.” That sense of belonging, she said, directly impacts the business and the customer experience.
Wrapping up, Barnes asked whether events like Black Restaurant Week and Downtown Restaurant Week make a difference.
“I think it does,” said Williams, although she noted a dip this year. “This year I have seen a decline, you know, versus last year and the last two years that we've done it.”
"The thing that helps the most," Oglesby said, "is for people who love their city to vocally love their city and to support small businesses."
